Most cashmere is not ruined by wear. It is ruined in a washing machine, on a coat hanger, or in a drawer over the summer while nobody is looking.
It is genuinely worth learning how to care for cashmere properly, because the fibre rewards attention in a way that few materials do — a well-kept jumper softens with age rather than deteriorating. What follows is the routine we would give anyone buying their first good knit. Always check the care label on your own garment first, and when in doubt with something valuable, a specialist cleaner is the safe route.
Wash it less often than you think
Cashmere does not need washing after every wear. Two or three wears between washes is normal for most people, and airing does much of the work in between. Hang the jumper somewhere well ventilated overnight — not in a steamy bathroom, and not in direct sun — and it will freshen considerably.
Over-washing is one of the more common causes of a knit going limp, so the general principle is: spot-clean small marks, air between wears, and do a full wash only when it actually needs it.
Spot-cleaning
Deal with a mark straight away with cool water and the smallest amount of a mild detergent on a clean cloth. Blot rather than rub — rubbing agitates the fibres and is what causes a felted patch. Let it dry flat before you decide whether it needs more.
How to hand wash cashmere
Hand washing is the method most care labels recommend, and it is simple once you have done it once.
- Use cool water. Around 20°C, or comfortably cool to the hand. Heat and sudden temperature changes are what cause shrinkage and felting, so keep the rinse water the same temperature as the wash water.
- Use a detergent made for wool or delicates. Ordinary laundry detergents often contain enzymes that break down protein fibres, and cashmere is a protein fibre. Avoid biological powders and never use bleach or fabric softener.
- Turn the garment inside out and submerge it. Press it gently under the water and leave it a few minutes. Do not wring, twist or stretch it.
- Rinse thoroughly in water of the same temperature until no suds remain.
- Press the water out by squeezing gently, then lay the jumper on a clean towel, roll the towel up like a swiss roll and press. Never hold a wet knit up by the shoulders — the weight of the water will pull it out of shape permanently.
If your machine has a genuine hand-wash or wool cycle with a low spin and you trust it, some cashmere can be machine washed inside out in a mesh bag on that setting — but check the label, and if the piece is precious, hand wash it.
Drying: flat, always
Reshape the damp jumper gently to its original dimensions and lay it flat on a dry towel or a mesh drying rack, away from radiators and direct sunlight. Turn it once partway through. Never hang cashmere to dry and never put it in a tumble dryer. It may take a day or more to dry fully, and that is fine.
Pilling is normal — here is how to deal with it
Small bobbles appear where the garment rubs against itself or against a bag strap: underarms, cuffs, the side you carry your handbag on. This is not a sign of poor quality. It is loose surface fibres working their way out, and it happens most in the first few wears of any soft knit.
To remove them, lay the garment flat on a table and use a cashmere comb or a fabric shaver, working in one direction with a light touch. Do not pull bobbles off with your fingers — that drags a longer fibre out of the knit and leaves a thin spot. Go gently and stop before you are tempted to press harder.
Prevention helps too: rotate your knits rather than wearing the same one three days running, and be aware that rough outer fabrics and coarse bag straps accelerate pilling at the point of contact.
Storing it through the summer
Storage is where most cashmere is lost, and moths are the reason. Clothes moths are drawn to natural protein fibres, and particularly to fibres carrying traces of skin, perspiration or food — which is why the single most important rule is to store cashmere clean.
- Wash or dry-clean everything before it goes away for the season. An unwashed jumper is far more attractive to moths than a clean one.
- Fold, never hang. Hangers stretch shoulders out of shape over months. Fold along the seams and stack loosely.
- Store in a sealed box or breathable garment bag, somewhere dry and dark. Avoid airtight plastic in a damp room, where trapped moisture can cause mildew — a cotton bag or a lidded box is usually better than a sealed plastic one.
- Add cedar blocks or lavender sachets and refresh them each year; cedar loses its scent, and with it much of its effect. Sand cedar blocks lightly to revive them.
- Check on things mid-summer. Catching a problem early is far easier than dealing with a whole drawer.
If you do find moth damage, isolate the garment immediately, clean everything stored with it, and vacuum the drawer or wardrobe thoroughly including the corners and edges.
Small habits that add years
Wear something under it. A fine cotton or silk layer between skin and cashmere means less contact with perspiration and less frequent washing, which is the single biggest factor in how long a knit lasts.
Take your jewellery seriously. Rings with prongs, watch clasps and bracelet edges snag fine knits easily. If a thread does pull, do not cut it — ease it back through to the inside with a blunt needle.
Rest the garment. Cashmere recovers its loft if given a day off between wears, which is another argument for owning two good knits rather than one.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I machine wash cashmere?
Only if the care label allows it. Where it does, use a dedicated wool or hand-wash cycle at a low temperature with a low spin, put the garment inside out in a mesh bag, and use a wool detergent. For anything you value, hand washing gives you more control and less risk.
What temperature should I wash cashmere at?
Cool — around 20°C, or comfortably cool to the touch. Just as important, keep the rinse water at the same temperature as the wash, because it is the change in temperature combined with agitation that felts the fibres.
Why is my cashmere pilling so much?
Some pilling in the first few wears is normal for any soft knit as loose surface fibres work free, and it typically slows down after that. Persistent heavy pilling in one spot usually means friction from a bag strap, a coat lining or a seatbelt. Comb it out gently and rotate what you wear.
My jumper has shrunk. Can it be saved?
Sometimes a mild shrink can be eased out by soaking in cool water with a little hair conditioner, then gently stretching the damp garment back towards shape on a flat towel and letting it dry flat. It does not always work, and true felting cannot be reversed — which is why cool water and flat drying matter so much in the first place.
Good cashmere is worth the small amount of trouble, and knowing how to care for cashmere properly is what turns an expensive jumper into a cheap one over ten years. Have a look at the cashmere collection and the wider knitwear edit, or read our guide to knitwear fibres to understand what you are buying. Better again, come in to 2-3 Church Lane in Galway and feel the difference between a two-ply and a chunky knit in your hands — we are always glad to talk fibre.
