Suede and rain are not friends, and Galway has a lot of rain. That is usually the first thing anyone says when they pick up a pair of suede boots in the shop — followed, about ten seconds later, by picking them up anyway, because nothing else looks quite like it.
The good news is that most leather and suede damage is preventable with about five minutes of work before the first wear and a small routine afterwards. This leather care guide covers the things that genuinely make a difference, for boots, bags and jackets alike. Always follow the maker's instructions on your own piece, test any product on a hidden area first, and take anything valuable or badly marked to a specialist rather than experimenting.
Before the first wear
Protect new leather and suede before it goes out the door, not after something happens to it. A protector spray designed for the material puts a water-repellent layer on the surface that buys you time to get a splash off before it soaks in.
- Check the product matches the material. Suede and nubuck sprays differ from those for smooth leather; some finishes and patent surfaces should not be sprayed at all.
- Test on a hidden spot — inside the tongue of a boot, or under a bag flap — and let it dry to check for darkening before doing the whole thing.
- Apply lightly and evenly from a distance, in a well-ventilated space, and let it dry fully. Two light coats are better than one heavy one.
- Reapply periodically through the season, as the protection wears off with use and cleaning.
Protecting a suede boot does not make it waterproof. It makes light rain survivable. Heavy weather is still a reason to wear something else.
Smooth leather: cleaning and conditioning
Leather is a skin, and like a skin it dries out. The routine is simple and slow.
Clean
Wipe dust and salt off with a soft dry cloth after wear. For more than dust, a barely damp cloth with a leather cleaner, worked gently over the surface, then wiped and left to dry naturally. Do not soak it, and do not use household detergents, solvents or baby wipes on good leather.
Condition
Every few months, or when the leather starts to look thirsty, apply a small amount of leather conditioner or cream with a cloth, let it absorb, then buff. Less is more: too much conditioner leaves a tacky surface that attracts dirt. Test the colour first, particularly on light or unfinished leathers.
Protect the structure
Boot trees or rolled acid-free tissue keep the shape of a boot shaft and stop creasing across the vamp. Bags should be stuffed lightly and stored upright in their dust bag. A leather jacket should hang on a broad, shaped hanger — a wire one will dent the shoulders in a matter of months.
Suede and nubuck: a different discipline
Suede has a raised nap rather than a sealed surface, so it is cleaned dry, not wet.
- Brush after every few wears with a suede brush, working in one direction to lift the nap and remove surface dust.
- Use a suede eraser or rubber block on scuffs and shiny patches, rubbing gently, then brush the area again to restore the texture.
- Never use water, soap or a wet cloth as a first resort. It flattens the nap and can leave a permanent ring.
- Keep it away from oils — hand cream, moisturiser and food are harder to remove from suede than from leather. Blotting a fresh oil mark with a little cornflour or talc, left to sit and then brushed off, is the usual first step, but a persistent mark is a job for a specialist.
If suede gets wet
It happens. Let it dry naturally at room temperature, away from radiators, fires and hairdryers — direct heat stiffens and shrinks the material. Stuff boots with paper to hold their shape while they dry, changing the paper if it becomes saturated. Once completely dry, brush the nap back up. Suede often recovers better than people expect, provided it is not force-dried.
Salt marks from wet pavements can be lifted with a suede cleaner or a very dilute white vinegar solution applied sparingly with a cloth and then brushed once dry — test it somewhere hidden first.
Leather jackets and leather trousers
Garment leather is thinner and softer than shoe leather, and it is generally best not to treat it like footwear. Wipe it with a dry cloth, hang it properly, keep it out of prolonged direct sunlight, which fades and dries the surface, and have it professionally cleaned by someone who works with leather rather than putting it through a standard dry-cleaner.
Creasing at the elbows and across the back is not damage — it is the material doing what leather does, and most people come to like it. What you want to avoid is a hard crease set in by storing the jacket folded. Hang it.
The Soft Touch leather pants from Dorothee Schumacher are a good example of the softer end of garment leather: lovely to wear, and best kept away from anything abrasive when stored. You will find more of both in the leather jackets edit, and our leather jacket buying guide covers what to look for before you commit.
Rotation, resoling and the long view
The single most effective thing you can do for a pair of boots is not to wear them two days running. Leather absorbs moisture from the foot and needs a day to dry out; wearing the same pair daily is what breaks down a lining and creases an upper prematurely.
Beyond that, have soles and heel tips replaced before they wear through to the structure. A good cobbler can resole quality footwear repeatedly, which is the real argument for buying well in the first place — and it applies to most of the pieces in our shoes collection and boots collection. If you are choosing a pair now, our boots buying guide goes through construction and fit.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I wear suede boots in Irish weather at all?
Yes, with judgement. Treat them with a suede protector, reapply it through the season, and keep a leather or rubber-soled alternative for genuinely wet days. Plenty of people wear suede all winter here — they simply do not wear it in a downpour.
What should I do if my leather boots get soaked?
Wipe off the surface water, stuff them with paper to hold their shape, and let them dry slowly at room temperature away from any heat source. Once dry, condition the leather lightly, since water draws oils out. Never dry leather on a radiator.
How often should leather be conditioned?
For footwear in regular winter use, every few months is a reasonable rhythm, or whenever the surface looks dull and dry. Over-conditioning is a real thing — a build-up leaves the surface tacky and can darken the colour, so err on the side of less.
Is a scuff on suede permanent?
Often not. A suede eraser followed by brushing lifts many scuffs and shiny patches. Deep marks, oil stains and water rings are harder, and those are the point at which a specialist leather cleaner is worth the cost rather than trying stronger products at home.
None of this takes long, and it is the difference between boots that last one winter and boots that last many. If you are unsure what a particular pair needs, bring them in — we are at 2-3 Church Lane in Galway and happy to look. You can also browse the boots, bags and jackets online, with free shipping nationwide.
